Saturday, July 13, 2013
days 8 through 13 Alaska trip
I got the work on the bike from Soul, and the news is not good. The bottom bracket needs to be replaced and it is unclear if Soul can do it. I called Dicks and Eddie said they would refund the entire price if I brought it back or sent it back by UPS. However, that might cost more than a hundred and fifty dollars and would be a big hassle. I went and had coffee and wrote my blog –nothing going on with the novel—and then I went to see Despicable Me 2 and it was a real treat. I then went to Earls for an okay meal of salad and fish tacos, then for a walk in downtown. It was after 11 when I got back to the campground and I went to bed almost immediately. I awoke around 4 and couldn’t get to sleep so for the first time this trip I took one OTC sleep aid and that eventually worked. Gloria had mentioned that I might be sleeping well without all the daily stresses of home life but the bike situation is pretty upsetting. However, I realized during the night that my bike rack can handle two bikes so I can just put it on the rack and return it to Dicks and buy a second bike for the rest of the trip. That gave me some relief.
I got up at about 5:30 and showered—much needed to be sure—and then headed into town to work on my 331 outline at McDonalds.
The rain put a damper on much of the rest of the day, but I took several walks and worked on my outline a few times. Finally it got to be six and I went to Soul to see how my bike was doing but the mechanic didn’t know he was supposed to work on it. He was friendly and told me to come back in a half hour and he would see what he could do. I got back in a half hour exactly and he was just finishing up. He had taken the bottom bracket off and cleaned it, found that it was still usable, and then put it back together—and at a cost of 26 dollars. I gave the mechanic 20 dollars and went off for an hour’s ride ending up at the Vermillion Lakes. Then it was time for dinner at Nourish, pricey but pretty good. The beet and goat cheese ravioli were fabulous but the halibut was only good and the lobster ravioli was tough. I was finished by 9:30 so I thought I should try out the 9:50 showing of The Lone Ranger and I actually enjoyed most of it. It was a bit slow but overall it kept my interest. Johnny Depp is always fun.
I slept well and rose at 6:00, showered and then headed off for Johnston Canyon. I drove slowly and saw one huge bull elk but that was it. I was the first person in the canyon and I saw alpine bluebells, twin flower, heart leaved arnica, bunchberry, and indian paintbrush. I made it to the lower falls and the stream was very high. It was very rewarding to return to such a special place, though sad to be there without Tracy. I remembered her saying that fishing the section above the upper falls was the loveliest place she had ever fished. It was time to drive to Lake Louise and the place was just started to get crowded so I took my short walk, snapped some photos and took a nap. I was going to go biking along the bow but there were warning signs about a bear in the area so I decided to ride later. I stopped at highway 11 and rode for an hour along it, mainly slightly downhill so the ride back was rather strenuous. Very good workout. I drove on and took another nap before the icefields and then stopped to fish a small creek about 50 miles from Jasper. It was a lot of fun even though I didn’t get a hit. I was able to hike up above the many cascades without my knees giving me too much of a problem so that was very good news. I drove to my campground and found it fine, then headed into Jasper for dinner at the Fiddle River Seafood restaurant but though the mushroom soup was very good, the ceasar salad was average and the bison lasagna mediocre, not really a lasagna at all, more like a sweetish stew. I walked around some more and then drove back and took a well needed shower before turning in.
The next morning (Wednesday the 10th) I was a little nervous as I had to get things set up for my kayak run at Beckers. I decided to start about a mile above Beckers and I had things set up by 8:30 so I had plenty of time to do little chores. To my surprise the rafting company drove up and told me that yes Jeff worked for them and yes they would watch me at Beckers. I met a young man who was paddling the smaller version of my boat, and I followed him through Beckers and just catching the edge of the wall. It was a lot of fun and I felt so good about paddling again. After riding my bike up to the truck I changed and then went to pick up the kayak and gear. I then chatted with Cathy Gallo about Claire and started my drive to Fort St. John, 360 miles away. It started to rain just past Hinton and it didn’t stop till I reached Grande Prairie, where my check engine light also went on. Luckily, I called the Nissan dealer and they were able to check it out though I will have to return in the morning for one of the mechanics to look at it. I decided to try to play golf and there was a combination golf course and campground only a few minutes away so I was able to play 9 holes (and shoot a 46 on the double hole round) and a 48 on the regular round. I then went to a nearby park and rode my bike for an hour before heading to Boston Pizza for dinner.
I got up at 6 and was at the dealer at 6:50 and they had me in at 7:15. It turned out the kid in the gas station had probably tightened the cap wrong, but the from axles bearings were leaking and fortunately that 600 dollar job was covered by the warranty. I also replaced the cabin filter and had an oil change. While they were working I drove back to the park and then into town, which was dusty and some of depressing. I went back to the park after some soup and a bagel and coffee and rode along the stream to where it warned about bear and moose, nice to think about so close to town.
It was almost one by the time I got off and I drove and drove, making one early mistake trying to find Buick Creek which turned out to be muddy and slow. The rain started and followed me the rest of way. The Sikanni Chief was fast and murky and though the Buckinghorse looked fishable, the rain was too much. I took a few short walks but it never cleared enough for me to consider fishing. I got into Fort Nelson at 9:30, filled up with gas, paid for a campsite (only 15 dollars), and had a fine dinner at Boston Pizza, where I worked on my outline and my blog. I think I have made up my mind to cut out Vancouver and California. Alaska will be enough, especially all the driving with traffic coming at you. I will spend a little more time in Whitehorse, then spend more time in Alaska before heading down the Cassiar and then home. I will be too rushed and exhausted if I do more.
I woke around six on Friday, showered, grabbed a coffee and treat and was off. I figured out where Tracy and I had fished, just below Summit Lake, so that is where I headed. I was now back in the Rockies and it was clear it had snowed at the higher elevations. It was going to be pretty cold when I started fishing. I got to the Tetsa around 7:30 and it was certainly fishable but I didn’t want to waste my fishing time on the main branch. I kept driving as the Tetsa narrowed and I finally arrived at the pull off, delighted that no one was there even though I had seen no one fishing anywhere on the Tetsa. There was a light snow on the trees as I carefully rigged up, zipping the liner in my gore-tex jacket, and working my way down to the stream, full of expectations. A few casts later I had my first rainbow on, the trout hitting my royal wulff. Amazingly, that was it. I worked pool after pool and couldn’t bring up a fish. A few pools before the waterfall I shifted to a bead head gold ribbed hare’s ear but nothing hit until I got to the final pool where I did get a solid hit and then had a fish on for a few seconds. I switched to a grasshopper but no luck then went back to the nymph as I worked back to the truck. I was now back at the pool where I caught the first fish and finally I had another fish on and then a second. That made me feel a lot better and I climbed back up to the truck and changed out of my gear. I drove on and finally stopped at Liard Hot Springs, where I took the kayak and other stuff out to dry, started a wash, rode my bike for an hour, and lucked out with the sun holding until I had everything done. I started on the last push to Watson Lake but it soon became clear that I wasn’t going to be able to play golf, especially since the rain came back and made the drive more difficult. I got into Watson Lake around nine, had an okay dinner of salad and fried cod, and worked on my outline, my novel and my blog.
I ended up at the Watson lake provincial campground and it was pretty deserted. I took a site next to the only other campers in the place and after a short walk, went to sleep with no mosquito problem probably because it was so cold.
I awoke at a little past six and began driving toward Whitehorse. It was rainy and I thought I would skip the Swift but by the time I got back into BC, the sky was clearing and I stopped at the Swift. Nothing, not a hit, on a Royal Wulff, wooly bugger, big stonefly, bead head hare’s ear. Still, it was pleasant to return to some memorable water and I will probably try on my way back. Later I stopped at a very tempting little stream, but dries and nymphs had no results. I did hike up a few hundred yards so I really thought I would have some luck. Anyway, fishing was over for the day and though I didn’t get a hit I had a lot of fun. I had lunch in Teslin, at the only restaurant left in town, the gas station/rv park/restaurant and it was a very good garden burger. I drove on and after a good nap made it to the meadow lakes golf course. I’ve played this short but challenging course before, and it proved to have some very tricky shots but I shot a 48 and a 49 on the double holes, both scores coming on excellent very long putts that left me short finishing putts. It was now time to find a campground and I found a decent one at Pioneer Campground where I took a nap, did my yoga and then went to the Robert Service campground to ride the bike trail into town. I crossed the Yukon and followed it up to the dam, watching the powerful rapids and the amazing torrent of water right below the dam where the entire Yukon comes out. Now I was ready for dinner and I decided to go to the Klondike salmon and rib place and the wild salmon was delicious as was the side of smoked salmon I ordered.
Monday, July 8, 2013
Day 7 Alaska
I got the work on the bike from Soul, and the news is not good. The bottom bracket needs to be replaced and it is unclear if Soul can do it. I called Dicks and Eddie said they would refund the entire price if I brought it back or sent it back by UPS. However, that might cost more than a hundred and fifty dollars and would be a big hassle. I went and had coffee and wrote my blog –nothing going on with the novel—and then I went to see Despicable Me 2 and it was a real treat. I then went to Earls for an okay meal of salad and fish tacos, then for a walk in downtown. It was after 11 when I got back to the campground and I went to bed almost immediately. I awoke around 4 and couldn’t get to sleep so for the first time this trip I took one OTC sleep aid and that eventually worked. Gloria had mentioned that I might be sleeping well without all the daily stresses of home life but the bike situation is pretty upsetting. However, I realized during the night that my bike rack can handle two bikes so I can just put it on the rack and return it to Dicks and buy a second bike for the rest of the trip. That gave me some relief.
I got up at about 5:30 and showered—much needed to be sure—and then headed into town to work on my 331 outline at McDonalds.
Sunday, July 7, 2013
Days 5 and 6 Alaska
I got up early and was on the road by 6:30 but with my naps, bike ride, walks and golf (a 49 on a very wet course), I knew I wasn’t going to make it to Banff so I planned to head for Strathmore, where I stayed at the rather nice eagle lake rv campground and went to Strathmore Station for dinner. I showered when I got back around 11:30 and then went to sleep and slept well, not waking until after 8.
I didn’t rush but certainly the Rockies were on my mind, and as I approached Calgary I got my first view and was very moved. They have been very important to me, back to when I was 18 or 19, and I must say that this visit felt right. I went to check in at Tunnel Mountain campground and I have a decent site. Then I went for my bike ride along the bow, and I did the steep part twice. The bike is starting to give me more problems. The river was high and murky but I figured that the smaller streams would be fine for fishing. When I went to get my license It turned out that a record flood a few weeks ago washed out all the fish so I won’t be able to fish until Jasper. I am having the bike looked at but it is very frustrating.
Friday, July 5, 2013
Alaska day 4
I drove into Canada at around 4 and that is always a relief. There is something pure about Canada and at one point my ex and I even looked into becoming Canadian citizens but the US never got too bad so we never pursued the idea.
I stopped as soon as I could to ride my bike and it the shifting gave me some problems at first. I tried riding with the earphones on but I couldn’t hear the traffic coming so that didn’t work. It was pretty hot but the fields were comforting, especially the corn.
Next I had to work on my phone, which could make calls but the GPS and internet weren’t working. It took a couple of calls to Verizon but the woman solved the problem by switching from the global setting to the lte network.
I was tired and hungry so when I saw a comfort inn right on the corner (which I think I may have stayed at) I called and changed my reservation to this one even though it was a little more expensive. I then grabbed a fish sandwich at McDonalds and checked in and took a very needed nap. I woke up wanting to eat and to watch the Macy’s fireworks so I pushed myself out of bed and headed for the restaurant that the comfort inn staff had recommended, Michael Ps. I think I had eaten there before and the menu was not very interesting so I drove down Pembina and stopped at an Indian restaurant that was not very good. Actually, the samosas were okay but the korma and the garlic naan were not very good. I ate about half and headed off to watch the fireworks and caught the last ten minutes. However, I found that they were repeating the whole display so I got to watch it and fix my fishing gear and do a number of other little tasks before I went out for a walk, which was very pleasant in the cooling, slightly breezy air.
I slept very well and though I am stuck with what to do with the plot of the novel, I did get my other computer working and connected to the internet.
Thursday, July 4, 2013
Alaska Day 3
Well, my visit ended up in St. Paul and it wasn’t very pleasant. It started out okay, parking by Mears park and then walking down to the Mississippi which was at flood and very fast. I decided to get an early dinner and when I got to Senor Wong’s, the place recommended at the Hilton, I found out it was only 4, my phone still on eastern time. I ordered salad and fish tacos and just as I finished, I realized that my meter would run out and I quickly paid and ran to my truck and found a $160 dollar ticket which absolutely floored me. I called the Parking Office and Caroline said to call back in 10 days and they would see what they could do. I started to drive just to get out of awful St. Paul but traffic was awful so I got off the highway and parked in a U of Minnesota parking lot and took a nap. Feeling much better I stopped for coffee in the college shops section and that was fine. There was still some traffic but I eventually got out of town and ended up at Lake Carlos State Park, getting in a quick ride and a great shower.
This morning I was off by 6:15 and I stopped to walk around downtown Fargo and then I went to play golf in Hillsboro. It was a long course but no obstacles and I shot a 44 and a 45. Now I am in Grand Forks and I should be in Canada in a few hours.
Wednesday, July 3, 2013
second day of the Alaska trip
I drove from Batesville and stopped to play golf at the Trophy Club just north of Indianapolis. Very nice course and I broke 50 easily. Fast greens and I putted well. I did my hour bike ride out in the corn and soy fields and that felt very good. I kept driving and I finally stopped at Rock Cut State Park for the night. My spot was very isolated so very quiet. I took a walk just before going to bed and slept well until a little after six.
I drove on and I have almost 200 miles done by 11:30. I did my fiction writing and I will stop soon to ride my bike. I hope to stop in Minneapolis for dinner.
Tuesday, July 2, 2013
The first day of the Alaska trip
My trip started on Monday, July 1, and it was a decent start on a day where rain was the main theme. I woke at 4, worked for a hour getting things together and in the truck, napped for a half hour and then left at 8:10. I had put a little more water in the batteries so they should be okay until I return.
The drive to Blacksburg and then to the West Virginia border left me a little sad, as leaving my lovely state always does, but once I was on 77, the trip was on. I stopped to ride my bike on the campus of West Virginia State University, and that was very pleasant and I just beat the rain. I had almost bought a cargo pod earlier at Sears but it would have taken a lot of work to get it attached so I gave up. Instead, I thought that strapping the second spare on top would open up a lot of space and I did it just before my bike ride. I pushed the kayak and kayaking gear up to the front and had plenty of space for most of the other gear (tent and sleeping pad, fishing gear and waders and wading shoes, hiking boots, yoga mat and blocks). The tire on top will also give me a place to put a small gas container and that will be a good idea.
After the adjustments and the ride, I began to drive on I 64 and head toward Cincinnati. I should have checked my GPS in Charleston and I think it would have told me to go north there, but I stuck to I 64 and ended up driving in the rain for many hours, finally stopping at Batesville, Indiana where I found LaRosa’s Pizza to be quite good. The side salad had a garlic-stuffed olive in it and the roasted garlic on the pizza was delicious. I settled into the comfort inn and then walked a bit with an umbrella in the rain.
This morning I went back to work on my novel and I have about 3200 words.
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